Guémara
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : And a carder should not place in a piece of cloth more than three stitches for each loop that he attaches to the cloth in order to stretch it out, as this causes the cloth to overstretch and require trimming. And he should not card the cloth along its warp, i.e., vertically, but along its weft, i.e., horizontally. And he may even out the cloth by cutting it along its length, but not along its width, and if he comes to even out the cloth by removing up to a handbreadth of material, it is permitted for him to do so.
וְלֹא יָטִיל בּוֹ יוֹתֵר מִשְּׁלֹשָׁה חוּבִּין, וְלֹא יִסְרוֹק הַבֶּגֶד לְשִׁתְיוֹ אֶלָּא לְעֶרְבּוֹ. וּמַשְׁוֵיהוּ לְאׇרְכּוֹ, אֲבָל לֹא לְרׇחְבּוֹ. וְאִם בָּא לְהַשְׁווֹתוֹ עַד טֶפַח – רַשַּׁאי.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : The Gemara analyzes the baraita: The Master said in the baraita that the launderer may take two threads. But didn’t we learn in the mishna that the launderer may take three threads? The Gemara answers: This is not difficult: The ruling of this baraita, which allows only two threads, is stated with regard to thick threads, and the ruling of that mishna, which allows three threads, is stated with regard to thin ones.
אָמַר מָר: שְׁנֵי חוּטִין. וְהָאֲנַן תְּנַן: שָׁלֹשׁ! לָא קַשְׁיָא; הָא בְּאַלִּימֵי, וְהָא בְּקַטִּינֵי.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : It was also stated in the baraita: And he should not card the cloth along its warp but along its weft. The Gemara asks: But isn’t it taught in another baraita that the opposite is the halakha? The Gemara answers: This is not difficult: The ruling of this baraita, which prohibits carding along the warp, is stated with regard to an ordinary garment, which is designed for durability, and one should therefore avoid wearing out the material by carding along the warp. The ruling of that baraita, which allows one to card along the warp, is stated with regard to an elegant cape [besarbela], which is made for aesthetic appearance and is therefore improved by carding in this manner.
וְלֹא יִסְרוֹק הַבֶּגֶד לְשִׁתְיוֹ, אֶלָּא לְעֶרְבּוֹ. וְהָתַנְיָא אִיפְּכָא! לָא קַשְׁיָא; הָא בִּגְלִימָא, הָא בְּסַרְבָּלָא.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : The Gemara examines the next clause of the baraita: And a carder should not place in a cloth more than three stitches for each loop. Rabbi Yirmeya raised a dilemma with regard to the definition of the term stitch in this context: Does drawing the needle in and out constitute one stitch, or perhaps does drawing the needle in and out constitute two stitches? The Gemara responds: The question shall stand unresolved.
וְלֹא יָטִיל בּוֹ יוֹתֵר מִשְּׁלֹשָׁה חוּבִּין. בָּעֵי רַבִּי יִרְמְיָה: אַמְטוֹיֵי וְאֵתוֹיֵי חַד, אוֹ דִּלְמָא אַמְטוֹיֵי וְאֵתוֹיֵי תְּרֵי? תֵּיקוּ.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : It was further stated in the baraita: And he may even out the cloth by cutting it along its length, but not along its width. The Gemara asks: But isn’t it taught in another baraita that the opposite is true? The Gemara answers that this is not difficult: The statement of this baraita, which rules that one should even out the cloth along its length, is stated with regard to a garment, where an uneven length would be conspicuous. The statement of that baraita, which rules that one should even it out along its width, is stated with regard to a belt, as the width of a belt is more noticeable than its length while it is being worn.
וּמַשְׁוֵיהוּ לְאׇרְכּוֹ אֲבָל לֹא לְרׇחְבּוֹ. וְהָתַנְיָא אִיפְּכָא! לָא קַשְׁיָא; הָא בִּגְלִימָא, הָא בְּהֶמְיוֹנֵי.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : § The Gemara cites a baraita that discusses which items may be purchased from a carder. The Sages taught in a baraita (Tosefta 11:12): One may not purchase strands of thread from a carder, because it is assumed that they are not his. And in a place where the residents were accustomed to allow carders to retain strands, the strands may be presumed to be his and one may purchase them. And in every place, one may purchase from them a cushion full of stuffing made from strands, or a mattress full of stuffing made from strands. What is the reason that it is permitted? The reason is that even if the carder had stolen the strands, once he uses them to make a cushion or mattress, he has acquired them through a change of form.
תָּנוּ רַבָּנַן: אֵין לוֹקְחִין מִן הַסּוֹרֵק מוֹכִין, מִפְּנֵי שֶׁאֵינוֹ שֶׁלּוֹ. וּבִמְקוֹם שֶׁנָּהֲגוּ לִהְיוֹת שֶׁלּוֹ – לוֹקְחִין. וּבְכׇל מָקוֹם לוֹקְחִין מֵהֶן כַּר מָלֵא מוֹכִין וְכֶסֶת מְלֵאָה מוֹכִין. מַאי טַעְמָא? קְנָנְהוּ בְּשִׁינּוּי.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : § Apropos the halakhot pertaining to weaving, the Gemara cites a baraita that discusses which items may be purchased from various craftsmen. The Sages taught in a baraita (Tosefta 11:11): One may purchase from a weaver neither woolen wads [irin], which are used to hold the bobbin in place on a shuttle, nor heddles [nirin], nor threads of the bobbin [punkalin], nor remnants of coils of thread that were left on the spool, as there is a concern that these items were taken from the customer without his consent.
תָּנוּ רַבָּנַן: אֵין לוֹקְחִין מִגַּרְדִּי לֹא אִירִין, וְלֹא נִירִין, וְלֹא פּוּנְקָלִין, וְלֹא שִׁיּוּרֵי פַּקְיעִיּוֹת.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : But one may purchase a spotted garment from them, even though the design indicates that it was made from strands of different colors, which the weaver may have stolen from other garments that he was weaving. It is also permitted to purchase warp threads and weft threads from them, as well as wool that was spun into thread or woven. All of these items may be purchased from the weaver because they have undergone a physical change, and have therefore been acquired by the weaver even if he did steal them.
אֲבָל לוֹקְחִין מֵהֶן בֶּגֶד מְנוּמָּר, עֵרֶב, וּשְׁתִי, טְוִוי, וְאָרִיג.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : The Gemara asks: Say: Now that the baraita taught that one may purchase spun wool despite the fact that it has undergone only a minor physical change, is it necessary to teach that one may purchase woven wool, which has undergone a greater change of form? The Gemara answers: What does the baraita mean when it mentions woven wool? It is not referring to wool woven into a garment, but to wool that was twisted into chains, which is also a minor physical change.
אָמְרִי: הַשְׁתָּא טְוִוי שָׁקְלִי, אָרוּג מִבַּעְיָא? מַאי ״אָרִיג״ – תִּיכֵי.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : The Gemara examines which items may be bought from a dyer. The Sages taught in a baraita: One may purchase from a dyer neither pieces of wool used for tests, nor pieces used as a color sample [dugmut], nor detached pieces of wool, as these might have been stolen. But one may purchase from him a colored garment, spun threads, and clothes fashioned from the aforementioned pieces of material. The Gemara asks: Now that the baraita taught that one may purchase spun threads from the dyer, is it necessary to teach that one may purchase clothes? It is obvious that one may purchase clothes, as the clothes themselves are made of spun threads. The Gemara explains: What does the baraita mean when it mentions clothes? It is referring to felt garments, which are not made of spun thread.
תָּנוּ רַבָּנַן: אֵין לוֹקְחִין מִן הַצַּבָּע לֹא אוֹתוֹת וְלֹא דּוּגְמוֹת וְלֹא תְּלוּשִׁים שֶׁל צֶמֶר, אֲבָל לוֹקְחִין מֵהֶן בֶּגֶד צָבוּעַ, טְוִוי, בְּגָדִים. הַשְׁתָּא טְוִוי שָׁקֵיל, בְּגָדִים מִיבַּעְיָא? מַאי ״בְּגָדִים״ – נַמְטֵי.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : The Sages taught in a baraita (Tosefta 11:16): In the case of one who gives hides to a tanner, the trimmings of hide and the detached hairs belong to the customer, but the substance that comes up while being washed in water belongs to him, the tanner.
תָּנוּ רַבָּנַן: הַנּוֹתֵן עוֹרוֹת לְעַבְּדָן; הַקִּיצּוּעִין וְהַתְּלוּשִׁין – הֲרֵי אֵלּוּ שֶׁל בַּעַל הַבַּיִת, וְהָעוֹלֶה וּמִשַּׁטֵּף בְּמַיִם – הֲרֵי אֵלּוּ שֶׁלּוֹ.
Traduction française en préparation — version anglaise (Steinsaltz) : § The mishna teaches that if the threads were black on a white garment, the launderer may take all of them. Rav Yehuda said: A launderer is called a katzra in Aramaic, and he takes the short [katzra] shreds of wool for himself. Rav Yehuda also said: All the threads, even those usually removed from the garment, are counted toward the minimum number of thumb-lengths between the hole through which the sky-blue wool is inserted for ritual fringes and the edge of the garment. But Yitzḥak, my son, is particular about these threads, and makes sure that the garment is of the proper measurement even if the threads were to be removed.
אִם הָיָה שָׁחוֹר [וְכוּ׳]. אָמַר רַב יְהוּדָה: קַצָּרָא שְׁמֵיהּ, וְקַצְרָא שָׁקֵיל לֵיהּ. אָמַר רַב יְהוּדָה: הַכֹּל עוֹלִין לְמִנְיַן תְּכֵלֶת; וְיִצְחָק בְּרִי קָפֵיד עֲלַיְיהוּ.